![]() ![]() Cardoz's exciting Indian-fusion food, Bread Bar was an awkward ground-floor adjunct with an identity crisis. ![]() Three years ago, when Tabla opened to raves for Mr. Such are the unexpected pleasures at Bread Bar, Tabla's less formal, less expensive cousin. Cardoz's sweet house-made ketchup is left on the side, waiting in vain to cut in. Dredged in chickpea flour and corn meal, fried until perfectly crisp and bristling with pepper, these slender rings ($8) dance in the mouth, two-stepping so expertly between savory and spicy that Mr. Yet in the hands of Floyd Cardoz, the executive chef of Bread Bar at Tabla, the simple onion ring achieves unexpected sublimity. CONSIDER the onion ring, at best intensely satisfying though rarely exciting.
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